Toe board.

(1961 2CV AZU)

The reason why I did the sills and floors first is to keep a reference in order to have all the parts fitting together.	I raised the body for the deconstruction.
Te deconstruction is probably the most painful job. There are a lot of spot welds to undo. You can use a special bit and also a chisel. It is a lengthy and difficult job to do without destroying everything.
The replacement part is new but of poor quality. The beads are not in one piece unlike the original toe board.	The toe board was bending at the red line. You’ll see later that the dimensions were wrong also.
Here is the bead roller that helped on extending the beads.	Looks better.
Here it is before. As you can see the toe board is buckling once you lower the body.	Now, it is straight and stays straight.
First fitting problem.	Second fitting problem. The distance between the holes is shorter than the chassis.
Third fitting problem.	After correcting the fitting issues, here is the board finally welded in place.
The welding was difficult due to the thin metal and some rusted spots.	Making sure that there is a good penetration.
Thank goodness for a MIG welder.	I have cut out the reinforcement plates (Where the front fenders attached on the other side) and fabricated new ones. I used this tool to record the angle that I had to duplicate.
Throughout this project, I sandblast and use a weldable primer to avoid rust forming between the welded metals.	Also, all the seams have to be sealed either before or after the final paint job depending of where it is; For example, if you want an original look, you would seal the seam between the sills and the floors and where the floors meet the body behind the seat, after the final paint job. The gray primer is a sandable self etching primer to protect the exposed metal against the atmosphere while waiting for the final paint job.
A few pics of the finished job.