High Pressure Pump rebuild.
(1966 DS21)
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The faulty pump (Hammering noise under load). By just
turning the pump, I could feel that something was really wrong. |
I took pictures and noted where the pin is located at
the front plate. Update: I have built several pumps since then, so now I
know that the pin is at |
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I used an engraver to mark the position of the front
plate, body and fluid tank. Update: I now make a mark at the pin, killing 2 birds
with one stone. |
Home made tools for removing the tank. |
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Surprise! Two springs were broken. |
One piece of the broken springs was lodged in the
opposite side. |
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Before dealing with the pump, I cut the bulge to make
it easer to fit the hose. It is now prepped for the paint. Before painting, I
have engraved another mark inside the lip; it would have been covered by the
paint. |
I used POR15 with a foam brush. This makes a nice
smooth finish. I masked the end of the intake to avoid POR being in
contact with brake fluid. POR does not resist to a long exposure to brake fluid. Next time, I will use a 2 component epoxy
paint. For LHM pumps, I use Hunter Green from Rustoleum. Some people use John Deer green; I personally
think that it is a little too bright. |
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It is quicker to mask the threads than trying to remove
the POR from them later! The longer thread is the centrifugal regulator bracket. |
The bottom side of the “wobbling” plate. |
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The homemade rack to store the cylinders and pistons.
They are paired and need to stay together. You can see that one spring broke
in 3 pieces. |
The body with the cylinders still in place. Good news,
the body is made of steel and not aluminum. |
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Face plate and body are separated. |
To extract the ball bearing, I used a clutch disk
centering tool. It can also being pushed using an
extractor. |
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One of the 7 valves. I have chosen the best side and
sanded it with a 600 and 1000 grid sand papers and rubbing alcohol. For LHM,
I use 3 in 1 oil, but it doesn’t make a big difference since the part
will be thoroughly cleaned. |
Same punition for the 7 cylinders. This is very
important because if the valves and cylinders leak, the pump will not keep
the pressure. |
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The internal bushing sanded with 600 and 1000 grid and
light oil. |
After cleaning every part, I store them in plastic
bags. |
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Since my rack was taken and I had to put apart and LHM
pump to get the pistons and cylinders, I used plastic bag numbered from 1
through 7 to keep track of them. |
I laid out all the parts and o rings before starting
reassembly. On the right, I have brake fluid and castor oil handy.
It is important to keep the area clean and neat. |
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My old laptop is very handy to see how the pump was
before I put it apart. Update: I don’t use it anymore; I know the
sequence by heart. |
Body mounted on the face plate with brackets newly
painted with POR15. Update: Now I paint the entire pump. |
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The ball bearing was pressed back on. |
Looking good! |
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I use leather to avoid marking on the parts. |
The needle greasing tool to insert grease deep in the
ball bearing. |
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Enough but not too much. |
After painting the tank, I redid a mark on the outside
to align it with the other marks (on body and front plate). Once the pump is
on the car, nobody can see the marks on this side. (I used home made press to
install the tank back on). |
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Dust cover in place. |
Time to tight up the nut. |
Done! Quiet and more pressure than
before.
Here is a LHM pump I have just rebuilt.